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Introduction - Of all human frailties that of the gourmet is probably the gentlest and the most amiable. His very weakness marks him out as that rare thing, a man of taste and discernment. It can do no harm to anyone but himself and need not harm even him if he has wisdom as well.

To all gourmets I commend this book. If, in these unhappy times, they cannot come to China to see and eat for themselves, this book will build for them an easy and a pretty bridge by which, from their own homes, they can reach the simple and surprising delights of Chinese cooking.

Preface - The Chinese long ago developed a way of life which has found some favour among visitors to China. The earliest records show that Chinese of the remotest antiquity not only en­joyed the chase; they also had good methods of dealing with the fruits it yielded.

The histories do not state clearly when tradi­tional Chinese cookery methods became fixed, but they do record, in prose and verse, the ecstasies of those men of fine discernment and taste who knew that men ate not merely in order to live.

Foreword - Modes of travel have so improved in recent years that the world seems to have really grown so much smaller and international intercourse has become so much easier. Increasing num­bers of visitors are coming to China each year and they sooner or later become acquainted with Chinese food. It is natural that many of these people find themselves desirous of learn­ing something of the mysteries of Chinese cook­ing and the art of imparting the subtle flavour­ings to the various dishes

01. Housewife + Cooking - One of the duties of a good housewife is to appreciate the importance of cooking and its close relation to domestic happiness. This opinion prevailed even in the days of Con­fucius. We learn from the Classics that Con­fucius was particularly fastidious as regards food for we are told that:—

1. He refused to partake of wine and dried meat bought in the market.
   
   
2. He refused to eat meat which was not cut properly nor what was served without the correct sauce.

02. Art of Cooking - China is a country where the appreciation of good food is developed into a fine art. Chinese are epicures. Their cooking is distinc­tive : No other cooking resembles it in any way.

Chinese food is rich, but not greasy: it is delicately flavoured, but not pungently spicy. Cook what is freshly slaughtered, and eat what is freshly cookedis a doctrine universally recognised throughout China. It is better that one should wait for the meal than that the meal should wait for one.

03. Dinner Parties - Restaurant Dinners

A dinner at a restaurant can be ordered in the form of a table d'hote or a la carte

 The latter is only for dinners of a very informal nature among intimate friends, and must never be given in entertaining an honoured guest or in celebrating some important event.

A full course dinner usually consists of eight large and eight small dishes with the addition of pastries, rice or noodles, and fruit. It is a long menu, and is, in truth, a great deal more than necessary.

04. Table Manners - The Analects state, "He who exercises gov­ernment by means of his virtue may be compared to the North Polar Star, which retains its posi­tion, and all other stars always turn towards it." The Emperor was known as the Son of Heaven, and his throne was always placed on the North side of the Hall facing South. The highest seat is therefore situated in the North facing South. Consequently, in arranging seats we have to take the following into consideration:— (a) A K'angmay be considered as a layman's throne.

05. Table Service - A complete Chinese dinner service for ten persons consists of 148 pieces. This may be either of porcelain or silver, the latter being used only by wealthy families, while the por­celain is perhaps the more serviceable. Pewter articles were once used a great deal but they are now being rapidly displaced by the porcelain variety.

06. Tea - Tea might correctly be termed the national beverage of China as it is so generally drunk by all classes, and the habit is one of very long standing.

It is the Chinese custom even at the present day to welcome a guest with a cup of tea and this is observed by the high and low alike. Good tea is of a clear colour, greenish or red­dish, and has a slightly astringent flavour. The poor quality is very light in colour and bitter in taste.

07. Wine + Song - No dinner is complete without wine, which brings joy and drives away depression, and makes the old feel young and the young still more youthful. Taken in moderation, it is undoubtedly an excellent stimulant. In the far north where the climate is cold and kaoliang abundant, Kaoliang wine, which is somewhat stronger than Russian vodka or English gin, is commonly drunk.

08. Kitchen Utensils -

09. Ingredients - Soya sauce plays an important part in Chinese cooking as it imparts a flavour and taste totally different from salt.

In order to get the best flavour and taste it is always advisable to use the best quality.

When using wine in cooking it is best to use Shaohsing Wine. If not obtainable, sherry can take its place. It is never advisable to use wine which has turned sour. To preserve its flavour, keep in a cool place.

10. Selected Recipes - HOW TO MAKE A CUP OF TEA (Hsiang Pien )

Proportion:

1 Coffee-spoonful of tea leaves

1 Measuring cup of boiling water

Method:

Put the leaves into a Chinese tea-cup.

Then pour on water that has just boiled, and cover with the lid. Allow it to stand for 3 minutes, without stirring. It is then ready for serving.

11. Suggested Menus -

(1)
Fried Rice
Fried Beef Fillet
Roast Crisp Duck
Red Sauce Rump Pork
Braised Shrimps
Fried Mustard Greens
Steamed Tientsin Cabbage Soup

(2)
Fried Noodles
Roast Stuffed Chicken
Egg and Beef Omelet
Brown Sauce Mandarin Fish
Fried Spinach with Bamboo Shoot and
Mushrooms Velvet Chicken with Corn

12. Chinese words - Chinese Characters for Different Tastes

Ao                    (Simmering)                            11
Cha                 (Fry)                                        10
Chao               (Fry)                                        9
Ch'ao T'sai      (Fried dishes)                           17
Cheng              (Steam)                                    9
Cfiien              (Coating of flour)                      13
Ching              (Please)                                    25
Chou               (Return of compliment) 26
Fan                  (Rice)                                       19
Hsiang P'ien    (Tea)                                        39, 53
Hua Tiao         (Wine)                                      40
K'ao Lu           (Roasting oven)                        7
K'ang               (Big chair)                                21
Ku                   (Mushroom)                             46, 48

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